Changing needle #3

Syringe Maintenance on the STA Compact: Changing needle #3. Alternate method to that recommended by Diagnostica Stago.

Transcript of Changing Needle 3

Welcome back to BioMed Buddy. We're going to change Needle #3. We are using a newer instrument for this, simply because there's been time span since last recording. Needle #3 is the hardest needle to change. I am not going to do it the way Stago recommends; I'm going to do it the way I've been doing it for the last 10 years. The main reason it's a difficult needle is because of the mapping associated with it. People change Needle #3, and then they have a bent needle again shortly thereafter.

Some of the reasons it's hard is because of the needle itself, and you'll see what I'm talking about. For this demo, I am going to open the lid (opens lid, :59), I'm going to take out the cuvette waste bin (removes cuvette waste bin, 1:04). Of course, you hear my doors complaining. I'm going to move this arm back. Simply for this demo, I'm going to turn the instrument off so we can have some quiet.

Needle #3: First, I am going to disengage it from the steel connector at the top (unscrews connector, 1:41). I want it loose. You see the dripping (points toward drip, 1:45); major leak.

Then I am going to take off the nut, and I'm going to push from the top and pull from the bottom. The reason I'm doing this is so that I keep this really easily flowing through. One of the problems that happens, is when people change Needle #3, they tear the tubing right here.

Slide 1 (2:12)

Remove the needle by disconnecting tubing, removing nut, push tubing from the top while pulling from the bottom.

From that, they get a leak that they cannot really see and it leaks down onto the Z arm. Z arm; it goes to the connection board, to the heating board, to the multifunction board and destroys all 3 of them.

I straighten it up, and push and pull at the same time. Hopefully you can see the white heat sink compound that is supposed to be there (points to white heat sink compound, 2:45). That is not to be removed. Now I am going to disconnect the needle, hopefully without destroying it. A needle is ... I don't know how much Needle #3 is, but that might be the expensive one; $500-$600.

This is Needle #3 (holds up needle, 3:11). Of course, this is a perfectly good needle. Needle 3 is the same as Needle 2, with the exception that this tubing is short; Needle 2 is long. I want to point out that this is a steel rod; it has to be there. I can't tell you how many times we've have had issues where somebody's pulled that off, thrown it away, and put a whole Needle #2 in it. That steel rod has to be there, the compound has to be there. Don't think you're doing yourself a favor cleaning it off. Just leave it alone for all practical purposes.

I am going to install the needle.

Slide 2 (3:53)

Tips: Sand paper or even a 4x4 gauze will help grip the tubing. A thumb tack can help spread the inside diameter of the tubing.

Some of this gets a little complicated. I'm going to use a piece of sandpaper. I'm going to put the sandpaper around the edge of the tubing, and this is so that I can grip the tubing well. You can take a ... and I'll tell you what's in lab, is a thumbtack, and widen the end of the needle. Of course you want to be careful that you don't destroy the end of the ... you can take the thumbtack, push it into the tubing and enlarge it a little. That'll allow you to get it out a little easier. It's just a little trick. As you see, I got my sandpaper on the edge, and I got another piece; I'm going to put it steel part (installs needle, 4:39). Just allows me to grip it. Then I'm going to put it on, and then I'm going push it all the way up. Now it's installed.

I am going to pull from the top and push from the bottom so that I don't get any snags in my tubing. Put it all the way in, put the black cap back on. Again, sometimes you can use your little sandpaper. Hook it back up to the steel coupling. Again, you want to use your sandpaper to help push it on. You want to have a good connection in there. That is it for changing Needle #3, except for the Mapping Event Needle, which we're going to do so now.

I am not going to really map it like Stago states; I'm going to do it a different way. I'll tell you my logic: I am going to use this adapter to map this needle, by putting it into the wash wells (shows adapter, 6:07). If the mapping was correct before, all these needles will go into these holes. If the mapping is correct, I can put that in, put Needle #1 down into the hole or slightly above it, put Needle 2 down into the hole, and then move Needle #3; it should go into the hole also. Everybody maps their unit using that steel bar, so that should be the same spot from one needle change to another change, and so forth. I'm going to adjust my Needle #3 so that it goes into the hole. I'm not doing any mapping; I'm just adjusting the needle. Let's see how it works. You've seen me flow the needle. I am going to turn the unit back on, and we're going to check to see how good the mapping is for Needle #3.

Before we continue, I'm going to tell I went into the service maintenance mode.

Slide 3 (7:29)

We are assuming that all 3 needles are the same length which they should be.

I'm going to put your cuvette waste bin back (replaces cuvette waste bin, 7:36); I am going to make sure that this mapping tool has been removed. Exactly what I am going to is I'm going to go down to Endurance. This is just a demonstration to show that your mapping is okay (shows computer screen, 7:53). I do this every time I do a P-am and before I leave an instrument. It's a good general check to make sure that you're not going to have any mapping issues. I actually do other things, too. If you watch one of my other videos, you'll see the full operational check; it takes about 6 minutes. After that check is done, you will find out that your instrument's probably going to work.

Right now we are checking specifically for crashing of the needles, the mapping. Right now it is going through the startup of the mapping program. What we are specifically looking for is the needles, to make sure that they're in the proper position. The whole idea here is to make sure that the needles go down and they don't crash into the bottom, which they do not; that the mapping proper and that you got a little range on each of the needles for that matter, but specifically #3 when it goes into the measurement plate into the cuvettes. That's what we're checking for. You may see me do some things that I'm not going to recommend you to do, and I'll tell you about that another time. I've been doing this for years so I know when to pull my head out, for lack of a better term.

Now the unit's going to start cycling. The endurance simulates the run. Needle 1 went down, came back up, loaded into a cuvette. I've got a little, teeny flashlight here; I normally use a small one. Needle 2 goes in; I can see it's in the center.

Slide 4 (10:03)

When checking for proper mapping in endurance Needles should go in the center of each position where the reagents and samples would be. Needles should go in the center of the cuvettes without hitting the cuvettes at all.

Here's where I'm concerned, is the fact that it goes in the middle and doesn't get the cuvette in any way; it should not. In fact what you get to see me do is I'm going to make sure that it is found in the middle. When I talk about the middle, I'm not talking about this side to this side because they're in different spots. I'm talking about the front to back. I'm going to show you how I do it; I am telling you not to do this.

Slide 5 (10:27)

Do Not Put Heads or Hands Inside The Unit

I simply can tell you that that the needle in the cuvette is right in the center of the cuvette. (pulls drawer out, 10:37).

I'm going to do the same for Needle #1. I will tell you; when the needles go into the wells, they are a little offset: 1 is a little farther to the left than 2, and so forth. From front to back, they should be right in the center. At this point, I'm happy with my mapping for Needles 1 and 2, at least from going in through cuvettes. I'm not going to get any crashedneedles. The main one I am looking for is Needle #3, which I have to wait for a while. You're going to see cuvette in the measurement station. Needle #3 is going to be going into the cuvette here shortly. There it goes down. What you want to make sure is that it does not hit the side. See? It did not. I can tell from here, it went about middle from front to back of that cuvette.

As you can see, I took the needle out, I didn't do no mapping; I just adjusted it so that everything was in the same spot that was originally before any needle problems, and the engine's going to run fine now. Plus, you don't do the mapping that Stago is recommending. You're more than welcome to do it that way; I just believe that's why people have problems with Needle #3 crashing all the time.

Thank you very much for attending this session of BioMed Buddy.